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Sauerkraut: More than a Condiment Edible Chesapeake, Winter 2008-2009 By Nicole Ferring
I enter the house and my nose tickles at the fresh, pungent smell of fermenting cabbage. Walking into the kitchen, I peek at the crock in a dark corner and listen for the bubbles that tell me my sauerkraut is almost ready. The thought of ten gallons of tart, crunchy, enzyme- and probiotic-filled sauerkraut makes my mouth water!
Yes, I am a sauerkraut enthusiast, although I never really thought twice about sauerkraut until I tried it homemade. Then, as a registered dietitian, I learned how healthy and easy-to-prepare it is, and I was hooked. You might think that sauerkraut is just a sidekick for sausages, corned beef, and hot dogs, but think again. You can add it to countless dishes like casseroles, pizza, soups, pasta, dumplings and even cake. Raw, homemade sauerkraut is also good as a salad or side dish. It has a crunch that you won’t find in canned, commercial varieties of sauerkraut, which are pasteurized.
Pasteurization destroys more than the crunch—the high heat diminishes the nutritional value. Raw sauerkraut contains beneficial digestive enzymes and lactic acid bacteria. It’s touted as an immune booster, digestive aid and cancer fighter—all well deserved. Research suggests probiotics, like those found in fermented foods like raw sauerkraut, may keep the immune system healthy by maintaining the “good” bacteria in the intestine. And of course, sauerkraut starts as cabbage, a cruciferous vegetable that is high in vitamin C, fiber and a multitude of powerful cancer-fighting compounds. Fermentation actually “pre-digests” the cabbage, making it easier to digest and the nutrients more available and easier to absorb.
While you can find raw sauerkraut in many health food stores, it can be expensive. But it’s so easy to make, you can have a few weeks’ supply for the small cost of a few heads of cabbage. Before delving into the sauerkraut-making process, let’s review some chemistry. Cabbage turns into sauerkraut through the process of lacto-fermentation. Basically, lactic acid bacteria that are present on raw cabbage are the starter culture. This is what is considered “wild fermentation.” Salt is mixed with shredded cabbage to release water through osmosis. The resulting brine keeps the cabbage submerged in an anaerobic environment, which keeps it from rotting while it ferments. The salt also keeps the cabbage crunchy by inhibiting the microorganisms and enzymes that soften it. Carbon dioxide is released which lowers the pH, also inhibiting the development of undesirable microorganisms. As the pH drops and more lactic acid is released, the cabbage takes on that familiar, tangy sauerkraut flavor.
Making sauerkraut is an easy, fun activity for the whole family. It’s also a great way to learn more about food science. The first thing to consider is the cabbage. Fresh, organic cabbage is best, since pesticides may affect the bacteria present and older cabbage can be dryer and might not release enough liquid. (If you buy cabbage at the grocery store, you may need to add more liquid during the process.)
As winter begins and many farmers markets close for the season, fresh cabbage is likely to become more difficult to find. But, if you’re near a farm, a year-round farmers market or even a retailer that carries produce from local farms, you may find late fall cabbage. Some varieties can even be harvested into early winter. While traditionally sauerkraut is made during the fall, you can also prepare it at other times. But note the temperature affects how much salt to use. You can use less in the winter and should include a little extra in the summer, as higher temperatures increase the risk of spoilage. Also note that when the temperature is cooler, the process is slower, and when warmer, faster. Regardless of season, always keep your sauerkraut in the coolest part of the house.
The most common method of making sauerkraut involves a large crock or bucket, a plate with a weight on top, and a cloth cover to keep the bugs and dust away. The problem with this method is that mold tends to grow on the top of the brine, which requires daily skimming. One solution is a specialty Harsch fermenting crock. It has a trough near the top that is filled with water. The lid is submerged in the trough, keeping oxygen out of the crock, but letting fermenting gases out. This is quite the investment, even for a sauerkraut connoisseur. For the casual sauerkraut maker, all you really need is two glass jars—a large wide-mouth jar and a jar that fits snugly inside, such as a jelly jar in a mason jar. The tight fit of the two jars should prevent any mold from growing on the brine.
Making sauerkraut is not an exact science. There are many different recipes, salt ratios and add-ins. Finding a recipe you like involves trial and error, as one recipe may taste good to one person and too salty to another. Just play around and find what works for you.
To start, I suggest trying a ratio of six cups of shredded cabbage (about one medium head) to one tablespoon of sea salt or pickling salt. Do not use iodized salt, because it inhibits the bacterial fermentation needed to make sauerkraut. Shred the cabbage with a food processor, a mandolin or traditional kraut board. In a large bowl, sprinkle the cabbage with the salt and massage it until it gets juicy. Pack the cabbage into the large jar with a potato masher or spoon until the brine rises to cover it about half an inch. If your cabbage isn't producing enough liquid when mashed with the salt, add more brine. (One tablespoon of salt dissolved in a cup of water is a good ratio if you need to add brine.) Use the smaller jar as a weight by inserting it into the large jar and pressing down. Some of the brine might overflow, but placing the large jar in a bowl will keep your counters clean. Cover the jars with a cloth and place in a dark, cool corner for a few days. The brine may start to bubble and foam during that time, which tells you fermentation is occurring. There’s no harm in tasting every few days.
Once it reaches the consistency and taste you enjoy, store it in the refrigerator. It will last at least several weeks, as the high acidity of raw sauerkraut prevents spoilage. It actually tastes better over time. While it’s delicious and healthy raw, you can also warm it up. You can lightly sauté or microwave it, but remember, cooking it at high temperatures over a long period will kill all the beneficial bacteria and enzymes.
After mastering the basics, experiment. Caraway seed, apples and juniper berries can vary the next batch. Adding red cabbage colors the sauerkraut pink, which kids tend to enjoy. An especially great resource for even more ideas is Sandor Katz’s book and website “Wild Fermentation.” Also keep your eyes open for food festivals in the Baltimore area, as many of the city’s inhabitants have ancestors from Germany and Eastern Europe, where sauerkraut has been part of the cuisine for centuries. And by creating your own recipe, you can turn raw sauerkraut into part of your family’s culinary heritage too.
Nicole Ferring is a registered dietitian living in Maryland. She writes about food and nutrition for various local and national publications. In addition to sauerkraut, she enjoys other traditional food practices like canning and bread baking. Her latest foray in the world of fermentation is making sourdough bread. Check out her website at www.nicoleknowsnutrition.com. |
